Category Archives: Winemaking

Anything having to do with wine production

Wandering through Germany: Part 1 – Pfalz

Earlier this year I went on a trip to visit some of the German wine regions. I was in Germany for a work trip supporting our European sales team and decided to do a speedy tour through as many regions as I could during 3 personal days I took at the end of my trip. It was an amazing experience which I was fortunate enough to share with my friend and (at the time) fellow MW student, Martin Reyes.

We visited the Rhine, Pfalz, and my personal favorite, the Mosel.

I was extremely impressed with the quality present in the Rhine and Pfalz. Clearly we don’t get the good stuff in the US! In Pfalz we visited two wineries, Weingut Knipser and Geoge Mosbacher, both of whom changed my idea of wines outside of the Mosel which admittedly I have had a very, very small sample set up until this visit.

Weingut Knipser

 At Weingut Knipser we were hosted by Volker Knipser who was enlightening, not just for the wines but also for his eloquent statements which I felt driven to write down.

On Brands: “We are not a region for brands. Our name is our brand. You can be sure if you have a Knipser you have a good wine.”

On Reputation: “You can only work on your name. That is all you have!” – I could not agree more!

On Terrior: “ Wine is a mosaic. The site is a part of the picture but also important is what you plant, how you train, and what grows. The cellar, not so much but the producer is important.”

Their 2011 Blauer Spatburgunder was amazingly elegant and aromatic made from native yeasts. “If you are looking for body, look to other varieties” – Volker Knipser on Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir). I was starting to think this guy is a genius!

The 2009 GG (Große Gewächse meaning “Great growth” or the German equivalent of Grand Cru) Mandelpfad Spatburgunder was amazing! Super aromatic with lovely soft supple tannins and fresh acid.

At Gerog Mosbacher we were treated to a lovely tour and tasting of some amazing Rieslings. Of course a super friendly winery dog accompanied us on all of our wanderings here.

Georg Mosbacher Pfalz sm

Here the current proprietors, Jürgen Düringer and Sabine Mosbacher-Düringer were our hosts. They were incredibly enlightening on the German wine classification system which was still completely greek to me until this point and the VDP’s (Verband Deutscher Prädikats or the German Quality Winegrowers Association) role in German wines. If you are a wine person, particuarly a Riesling person then it would probably seem that the VDP own most of the acreage in Germany however according to Sabine only 4% of the wineries in Germany belong to the VDP. They are invited to join by consensus of current group members. We tried several Rieslings grown on three different soils; Sandstone, Soils from near the forest, and Calcarious soils. The Sandstone had a decidely mineral flavor with lemon-lime hints, orange blossom, pear and apricot. The near forest soils had very sweet fruit, light minerality, apricot and grapefruit. The Calcarious soils were zesty and more linear in focus with sweet hay and very ripe apricot flavors.

2012 Deidsheimer Mäushöhle Riesling Trocken (Sandstone)

2012 Forester Musenhang Riesling Trocken (Near the Forest)

2012 Wachenheimer Gerümpel Riesling (Calcarious)

We also had a fantastic discussion regarding the aroma of petrol in Riesling. Jürgen weighed in on this and stated that his opinion was that Petrol showing up within the first 2 years is definitively a fault in the winemaking process that comes from high pressure in the press and a high level of phenolics in the juice. However if it shows up after the wine is 10 years old it is the normal Petrol aroma of an aged Riesling. He also stated that atypical aging disorders come from sunburn, drought years or green phenolics from un-ripe years.

It was truly fascinating stuff!

Their top two wines were the following

2012 Pechstein GG (Basalt soil) – Stone and Chalk

A Very mineral driven, rich palate with linear acid which is almost Mosel in style. Lime zest and flinty characters on the nose and palate.

2012 Ungeheurer GG – Zesty and Fruity

Ripe apricot, melon and cantaloupe with light minerality and ripe, rich fruit on the palate with a concentrated long finish.

Stay tuned next week for Part 2 – Rhine!

Georg Mosbacher cellar Pfalz

Harvest 2014: Week 11 – The End…Almost

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The end is near. Well the end of this harvest anyway.  I has been the earliest harvest I have ever experienced.  It has also been a very strange one with the rain during flowering, drought, earthquake, hail, more rain, heat, and this week even more rain which should put a cap on a very eventful harvest.  We received our last Chardonnay on last Friday.  We will receive our last fruit of the season this coming Friday making the earliest harvest I have ever experienced also the earliest ending harvest I have ever experienced.

Some of our earliest Pinot Noir picks are finished with ML and being SO2ed this week.  Among them is a very special lot of wine which I am still amazed that I had a hand in.  The fruit was from one of our Pinot Noir Reserve growers.  It was a earlier pick than the winery would traditionally have gone for however it is something for Pinot that I believe is important.  We hand harvested it at 24 Brix then allowed it to ferment using the yeasts coming in with the fruit in an open top fermenter.  The resulting wine is beautiful.  Every now and then as a winemaker you stand back and realize that you’ve helped create something truly special and Genevieve and I both feel that this tiny lot, only 350 gallons, is special even amongst our other Reserve lots which are pretty incredible if you look at their qualities independently.  We may be bottling it separately to make sure that it can be enjoyed by more than just us but only time will tell.  It’s been an amazing year for Pinot Noir and I’ve been fortunate to have been a part of it.

This will conclude my weekly harvest coverage.  Usually I go all the way through to week 14 but this year just doesn’t warrant it.  Next Monday I will be back to my usual blog topics.  Once again, if there are any interesting winemaking topics that anyone wants more information on feel free to leave me a comment and let me know what you want to read about.

 

 

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Harvest 2014: Week 10 – Rounding Up the Stragglers

 

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Like a duck gliding slowly, wings spread wide, feet reaching for landing on a pond, we are coming to the end of an incredibly fast harvest.  Last week we saw extreme temperatures.  Extreme cold in the mid 40s and extreme heat in the mid 90s.  I have seen some vineyards in Calistoga with frost damage at this point and that only reconfirms my belief that the season is coming to a close.  We have about a week an a half left of harvest at the winery to bring in all the remaining fruit.  It is mostly Bordeaux varieties with one lone block of Chardonnay down in Carneros that routinely takes its sweet time ripening.

The theme of this year has been low extractability.  We are having to work extremely hard to extract what color and flavors are in the skins.  Maybe that is a result of the drought.  Maybe the skins are thicker and harder due to the lack of water.  However, this was not the case last year which was also a drought year.  Quality looks good.  We are just having to work harder to keep it than in 2013.  It also seems to be a year of slow yeast.  Very few fermentations are “finishing strongly” with most going well until 3 or 4 Brix then slowing down to a crawl to the finish line.

For myself, I’ve signed up for a 10K on November 9th in Calistoga.  I wanted something to look forward to and work towards now that the Master of Wine program is no longer in my life.  Personally, I really can’t stand running.  I much prefer dancing, Pilates, Yoga, or even biking to running.  However, if I want to push myself I can’t stick with the easy stuff.  I have to motivate myself to do it.  Unfortunately my training has been hindered by an fateful run in with a tick sometime last month and fighting the resulting infection that may potentially be Lyme disease.  Why am I posting this? One, if one person who reads this blog remembers to check for the beastly buggers after wandering around in the outdoors it was worth it. Two, I believe in being open, honest, and fully authentic.  In this blog I’m not only writing about wine and winemaking but also its affect on my life.  Fortunately and unfortunately, one of the requirements of the job is being outdoors much of the year with all the highs and lows that come with that.  I’m under good care and well on my way to making a full recovery however prayers are always appreciated!

Stay safe my friends!